Garajonay National Park, a living relic of laurel forest on the volcanic island of La Gomera in the Canary Islands, invites hikers to step into a realm where towering trees and mist-weaving clouds vie for attention. As you push off from San Sebastián, the island’s main town, the air transforms—crisp, humid, charged with the scent of damp moss and earth. Every footfall stirs leaves that whisper stories of ancient times and fierce survival.

The park’s network offers trails ranging from casual strolls to full-day treks, but the 12-kilometer circular path from the Alto de Garajonay is the heartbeat trail. Starting at roughly 1,200 meters elevation, the route climbs to some of the island’s highest points, with an elevation gain near 300 meters. The terrain is uneven but manageable, alternating between exposed volcanic rock and shaded forest floors soft with fallen leaves.

Walking here means engaging with a forest that is fiercely itself—tree trunks gnarled with centuries, leaves dripping with moisture as the forest breathes around you. Small streams dare you to cross, their currents resolute and steady, while the wind pushes forward between branches like an unseen guide.

Planning your day matters. The weather can shift quickly, so moisture-wicking layers and good-quality hiking boots with grip are essential to navigate slippery patches. Carry at least 1.5 liters of water; the forest’s humidity can mask how much you sweat. Start early to claim the best light and cooler air—once midday hits, the sun pierces the canopy, and the temperature rising will test your reserves.

Along the way, viewpoints break through the canopy offering sweeping views of the Atlantic and neighboring islands. These moments reward persistence, framing the raw beauty of volcanic ridges and ocean horizons.

Garajonay isn’t just a walk in the woods; it’s an encounter with a fiercely preserved ecosystem that challenges and rewards with every step. Respect the trails, leave no trace, and listen—the forest has its own language, inviting you in but never yielding fully.